Muhammad Ali Sadpara, Pakistan’s most successful climber and national hero of his country, was well aware of the dangers of climbing the world’s highest mountains in winter.
Sadpara, a member of the first team to climb the 8,126-meter Nanga Parbat in the winter of 2016, returned three years later to help rescue the missing British climber Tom Ballard, who died on the Nanga Parbat.
Sadpara, now 45, is missing along with two other climbers, John Sunori, 47, of Iceland, and John Pablo Mehr, 33, of Chile, on the world’s second-highest mountain.
The three were last seen by Sajid, son of Sappara, three days ago on Friday at about noon, which is considered to be the most difficult part of the climb: Bottle Neck, a steep and narrow alley just 300 meters from 8,611 meters. Shy when Sajid was forced to retreat due to malfunction of oxygen mask.
The place is just above the roof of the helicopters that have been searching for them for three days. “Muhammad Ali Sadpara is a national hero and an asset to the country. The Pakistan Army is doing its best to save him,” Pakistan Army spokesman Babar Iftikhar said on Monday.
In a world under the influence of Western mountaineers, Sadpara, like Nepali mountaineer Nirmal “Namsadai” Praja, who joined the Sherpa team for the first time just two weeks ago in the winter of the 2nd, is a testament to his achievements. Along with Nanga Parbat in winter, he climbed 8,000 meters of 8 of the world’s 14 mountains and secured a sponsorship from the Pakistani government to climb the rest.
Sadpara began his climbing career as a high-altitude porter on the Bilturo Glacier on K2 in 2004. Before falling in love with the high-altitude, he missed the opportunity in an interview four years ago. Pakistani mountaineers competed with foreign teams. Despite the five highest mountains in the world at their doorstep.
The first climb of Nanga Parbat in the winter of 2016 with Simon Moro and Alex Tuxikin, however, made it one of the world’s elite mountaineers.
Speaking to reporters on Sunday, Sajid admitted that it was unlikely he could have survived so much on K2 in all three winters, adding that he had waited overnight at a camp under the bottleneck. What happened was, believing that the three would reach the summit.
“I kept my tent lit at night with that in mind,” he said.
“I think it makes sense to continue if they look for bodies [rescue] Operation, but their chances of survival, if you live at 8,000 (meters) for two or three days in the winter; there is no one beyond that.
This was the group’s second attempt to climb K2 this winter, a season that has already seen three other climbers die in the area.
Sadpara, who grew up in the village of Sadpara in the Purpurang community in the Skardu area, once described the economic dynamics that drove many people to the mountains to carry loads for foreign trips but some went their own way. ۔
“A lot of people climb for money, which is not much, but it keeps people going. However, many of my fellow porters don’t want to climb. If they had better opportunities, they would have stopped climbing.
“Honestly, if you ask me, I don’t want my children to work in this field. My son is studying, one of them is in college, and he has refused to climb straight. I want to be able to earn enough to provide services.
While helicopters are searching for the top of the mountain for the three, Pakistani media is following the effort with almost hourly updates and social media users are posting their hopes for rescue despite the declining difficulties. ۔
Among those waiting for his safe return was author Fatima Bhutto, who tweeted on Monday: “There is great hope for Ali Sadpara’s safe return.”
Others, however, were dealing with things they feared would be inevitable. “Today we lost you and are resting high on your 2nd,” said Karim Shah Naziri, a Skyper and climber. Tweet.
“The man who was always ready to save lives, today I am remembering your picture of February 27, 2019 when you were ready for the rescue operation. [Danielle] Nardi and Tom on Nanda Mountain.
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