A Sherpas team has achieved a far-reaching success in mountaineering: the K2 climbed in the first winter, the world’s second highest mountain, and never climbed the 8,000-meter altitude of the world’s 14 peaks in the winter. Was .
Ten Sherpasses, notably Nirmal Praja, a former Gurkha and a member of the British Special Forces, who had previously climbed all the more than 8,000 meters in just six months, visited K2 on Saturday. I asked They left their hills at -40C in their temperature rating at 1 a.m. through the Abruzzi Spar but in low winds and intense sunshine.
K2 was first climbed 66 years ago by Achilles Compagnoni and Leno Lacidelli. Six attempts were made on the mountain in the winter, none of them successful.
In the world of climbing, so long dominated by Western climbers and adventurers who have relied on Sherpas to help them, climbing – and such a large team – is an extraordinary feat for Nepali climbers.
The team finally reached the summit at 5 pm local time, waiting for them to sing the Nepali national anthem and gather as they descended.
After climbing Nanga Parbat in 2016, it was the last peak of 8,000 meters waiting to be climbed in 2 winters. Winter is rarely seen on the world’s highest mountains, and technical and climatic challenges on the K2 have thwarted some of the world’s efforts. Strong Himalayan climber.
In a statement from the summit, Praja said: “What a journey. I am embarrassed to say that as a team, we have called for a wonderful K2 in extreme cold conditions.
“We want to make the impossible possible and we are honored to share this moment with not only the Nepalese climbing community but also communities around the world,” he said.
“Mother Nature always has great things to do to stand on the tops and witness the sheer power of her extremism. We are proud to be a part of history for humanity and to show that mutual cooperation , Teamwork and a positive mindset can move forward. The limits of what we feel are possible.
The 8,611-meter climb of 2 in the winter was considered an impossible task by many due to bad weather conditions. Attempts are usually made in July or August during the warmer periods. And only 280 people have reached the summit, compared to 3,681 who have reached the summit of Everest. Climbers have been interested in climbing K2 in the winter since the mid-1980s, not long after the first winter climb of Everest.
Before the successful ascent on Saturday, Mangma Galje Sherpa, a member of the summit team, highlighted the importance of the Sherpa community taking the initiative in the winter. “For the other 8,000 members who gathered in the winter, no Sherpas were with them, so this is an opportunity for Sherpas to show their strength,” he said.
“Apart from Alpinist, all climbers seek help from Sherpa to fulfill their dreams of 8,000 meters of peaks. I have helped various foreign climbers reach 8,000 different people. The first winter. I was a little surprised not to see Sherpa on the climb, so this climb is for all the Sherpa community who are famous for our friends and clients from different foreign countries.
The team took advantage of a short weather window on the mountain, which is infamous for high winds, especially in the winter months, to climb to a high camp at 7,350 meters from where they reached their peak. The effort began.
The climb was quickly hailed as a historic achievement. “It’s done,” tweeted the Crocker Club, an online community celebrating the Himalayan region where K2 is located. “History books were rewritten.”
Climber Steve Rizzati tweeted: “Mountain history is being made when I post this. The Sherpa climbing team is above the bottleneck and heading to the summit in the best of winter conditions.”
Alan Arnett, who has long been involved in Hellline climbs, has made climbing in American climbing magazines a historical phenomenon. Rock and ice.
He said that this last sacred stone of mountaineering should fall on Sherpa and the Nepali team is a clear indication that the scale of altitude is changing.
Ever since Morris Herzig and Louis Lachnal first climbed Annapurna in 1950, becoming the first people to climb to the top of an 8,000-meter peak, climbing the world’s 14 highest mountains has been an imperialist and colonial business venture.
“Sherpas are the backbone of this enterprise. Setting up supply ports, setting up camps, fixing ropes – but none of that has done any good.”
As news of the successful summit spread, it was reported that a Spanish climber had died on the mountain.
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